remediation

This is not about environmental remediation, just correcting a few deficiencies in my nu trac environment.

Bees

When I split the hive a few weeks ago by taking bees and frames from hive 1 and creating a new hive 2, I noticed that hive 1 had no brood and apparently no queen.  In addition to the new queen I purchased for hive 2, I ordered a second queen for hive 1.  The second queen and several attendants arrived in a queen’s cage last Friday from an Alabama beekeeper. After again confirming that hive 1 was queenless, I inserted the queen cage into the hive.

I mentioned in a previous post how observation can be distorted, often by preconceived notions.  Hive 1 prior to introducing the queen was noisy, restless and it even looked as if robbing might be in progress.  Hive 1 has lots of honey and I am waiting for it all to be sealed before I harvest it, so maybe, with the colony demoralized and on the decline, they were being robbed?  Next day the hive seemed very different – no more agitated activity at the hive entrance and no angry responses to the slightest jarring of the hive bodies.  So, I concluded, the caged queen’s pheromones were being spread around the hive and the inhabitants were settling down.  Sunday I opened the hive to see how the bees were responding to the queen cage – they were gathered around it, could be easily brushed away (which indicates they were not attacking and trying to get at the queen) and seemed content.  So this morning, four days after introducing the queen cage, I removed the cork and some of the candy from the hole in the cage.  The bees should now remove the rest of the candy and I hope, in a few days when I reinspect, the queen cage will be empty and the queen will be busy egg laying.  I should mention that the new queen in hive 2 has settled down well and has laid eggs in a tight pattern on both sides of one of the frames.

Fruit orchard

In February 2011 I began a new orchard and installed 12 different 1 year old trees.  This spring I was sure 4 had died but, surprisingly, 2 unexpectedly produced leaves at their bases, so that left 2 victims – a Bing cherry and a Gold Nugett Loquat.

I took my first cuttings last fall and again earlier this year – most did not survive, but the fig cuttings looked strong, so I decided to replace the two dead fruit trees with a couple of cuttings.  I began with the Bing cherry – I thought it would lift easily out of the ground as is common when the roots have rotted, but this cherry was anchored.  I then found that though the  trunk was dead the root trunk was very much alive and well established, so I left alone and hope I will soon be rewarded with shoots.  The loquat lifted easily – just a short dead root trunk.  I enlarged the hole and added some chicken manure and then compost and then installed the small fig cutting.  I will water it frequently and I hope it will survive the transition.  Since the fig cutting is from  a nearby well established fig tree I know it will thrive in this area.

 

observation and analysis

I used to think observation was the key talent.  On trips through the Kruger game reserve in South Africa my siblings and I competed to spot the lion, cheetah, leopard or unusual game first.  On a river boat trip through north Australia we competed to be the first in the launch to spot the saltwater crocs (“salties”) lazing on the banks.  And for such contests a sharp eye was all that was needed.

But in my interactions with nature, observing the discordant object is only the first step.  Understanding why is equally important.

For several years my spring routine has been to spray roundup on the poison ivy alongside my walking paths in the woods.  I believe in live and let live, but my dog is an investigator which requires her to explore scents and droppings off the trail, which are often in the poison ivy patches, and she then transfers the poison to all who contact her.  So I use roundup for this purpose and this purpose alone.  There is a glade alongside the trail where poison ivy thrives, despite repeated attentions from the sprayer.  I observe the poison ivy, I drench and then later in the season spray again and the next year, there it is again, and more spraying.  This year, as I was about to spray, I received a cell call and so lingered at the spot longer than usual and then happened to notice two snake like vines heading up a tree.  Yes, they were poison ivy vines, which explains why, despite my ministrations, the poison  ivy continually resurfaced sponsored by seed from overhead.  Had I reflected on the persistence of the poison ivy I may have thought to look up and not always down.

poison ivy high in a tree
poison ivy vines climbing a tree

Of course, once you know about it, it is a simple matter to identify it elsewhere, as in this other tree, 10 ft away.

a smaller poison ivy vine

But often more is needed than just knowing what to look for.  Analyzing what you are looking at and being aware of the changing environment is a necessary skill.

A couple weeks ago as I passed my new orchard I happened to notice that one of the small trees (tanenashi persimmon) was suffering.  Half of its leaves had turned brown.  I remembered that I hadn’t watered this area for a week and, except for the previous day which had been cold, the spring weather had been in the 80’s.  None of the other trees was afflicted but I reasoned this particular tree was probably more susceptible to lack of water, so I promptly irrigated the orchard.  I did notice I had planted Russian comfrey too close to the small tree but reasoned this could not be the cause since comfrey is not allelopathic.  Then a little later that morning, I noticed that my tomato and cucumber seedlings were also afflicted – in their case I had watered every day, except the previous day which was cold.  This seemed unusual hardship for one day’s missed watering.  My mind wandered idly over these facts – perhaps there were root nemitodes attacking the one fruit tree and the tomatoes and cucumbers – such selective treatment seemed unlikely.  Then I noticed, in a separate planting the cucumbers were doing fine and they also had not been watered the previous day because it had been cold.  So why was the one lot ok and the other lot disaster.  Then it dawned on me – the previous day had been cold, but how cold – had there been a freeze?  I happened to meet my neighbor and he said the water in his hose had frozen the previous morning.

Now it made sense – the fig tree and the tomatoes and cucumbers are cold sensitive and had been hammered by the freeze.  And the reason the other cucumber planting was ok was because it is on the crest of a hill with no obstructions below it, so the frost, like water, slid down the hill away from it, which was not the case with the other planting which was on level ground.

frost damaged tanenashi persimmon alongside comfrey

All of this conjecturing and misdiagnosing could have been avoided had I, the previous day, just glanced at my min/max outdoor thermometer, which would have told me how cold it had been and then, with this knowledge I would have understood the changes.  So I need to remove distractions and attune myself better to my surroundings.

Or pursue a more analytical approach as Bill Mollison suggests in “Permaculture – A Designers’ Manual”: first make value-free non interpretative notes about what is seen; then select some observations and prepare a list of speculations; then confirm or deny the speculations by research, asking others, and/or devising more observations to test the hypothesis; then make a final examination of all the information to hand to arrive at a conclusion; and finally decide how to use the knowledge gleaned.  A disciplined approach for me to consider.

wildflower seeding

Last fall I collected a large quantity of wildflower seed and stored it in a cloth shopping bag.  Now that I have planted out my tomatoes and with rain in the offing, I decided to sow the seed – cosmos, sunflower, marigold and zinnia.  I was gifted two old cultivators – they are 5 feet wide and connect to the three point hitch at the back of the tractor.  The tines are spring tensioned.  I have a 60hp tractor which typically would pull a larger cultivator and so I had to make some adjustments to fit the cultivator to the tractor.  But the hitch fitted without a hitch, so to speak, and with my tractor in its lowest (slowest) gear I made several passes on contour across the sloping field.  The tines did a great job making furrows in the field and displacing stones.  I then hand sowed my collected seed in the furrows.  I probably should have finished the job dragging large planks with chains, which came with the cultivator, to bury the seeds.  I am hoping we get rain, but not too much, and the rain will settle the seeds in the soil.  Below is a ‘photo of the cultivator.

splitting the bee hive

I acquired my bees in spring 2010 and am now in my third year with the one hive.  I decided it was time for two hives and there are several ways to go about this.  Rather than buy a “package” or “nuc” I wanted to propagate my existing bees.  After all, they have survived two winters, gave me 4.5 gallons honey last year and appear very healthy and have not needed any medications.  So the genetics are good and, what I should have done, as suggested by a commentator, is used a queen cell in the hive to start the second hive.  Instead I waited and waited for a promised queen bee and had given up hope when, 8 days ago I received an email that there was a queen I could pick up that morning.  The seller is a 10 minutes drive and he had provided me with the nuke which started my beekeeping activities so I have confidence that his queen will be well adapted to my locale (actually he buys his queens from an “excellent” source and I trust him).

queen bee
the queen bee cage after the queen was released and wire and plate I fashioned to suspend it between the frames

queen bee
another view of the queen bee cage showing mesh through which the queen is fed prior to her release

So suddenly I had a queen bee and the long wait was over.  The queen is provided in a queen cage which is a little rectangular wood box with mesh along one side and a sealed opening at one of the ends.  I hastened to open my bee hive and, as I had feared it had already swarmed and the queen was gone -I  surmised she was gone since there were no eggs in the cells just sealed brood.  What I mean by this is the queen lays eggs, which after a few days turn into larva and then into a prepupa and then a pupa and then a bee.  After the larva stage the bees seal or cap the cell.  Since I had sealed brood and no eggs or larva it meant the queen had been gone for some days.  There were a number of queen cells on the frames and so I assume, once the bees had ensured there would be a future queen for the colony, a number of them together with the existing queen took off or swarmed to start a new colony elsewhere (and took honey with them to keep them going on this risky undertaking).  If I had been more proactive I could have taken the queen cells out of the hive together with some frames before they swarmed and I could have started a new bee hive and then the bees may not have swarmed because, without the queen cells, there was no ability for the existing hive to propagate itself.  It has been estimated that only 25% of the swarms survive their first year so, quite likely, my former queen and her companions will demise later this year.

I selected 8 frames from the existing bee hive (out of the 16 frames available) choosing 4 with honey and 4 with sealed brood but not with queen cells.  The frames were clustered with bees and the recommended procedure is, while holding the frame above the hive from which it is being removed, to give a sudden down thrust of the frame which sends a lot of the bees off the frame and tumbling onto their hive.  The theory is that field bees (the ones that forage daily for nectar, pollen and water) do not hold tightly to the frame while nurse bees do and so the sudden movement removes the field bees.  So, you may ask, why not have field bees in the new hive?  When bees exit a hive for the first time they study the entrance carefully to memorize its appearance and location for their return after foraging.  However, after this first memorization they don’t bother to do this again since it is wasted effort, they know where their hive is.  So if I had field bees from the main hive in my new hive, when they exited they would have gone food hunting and returned to the old hive.  No gain to the new hive.  Even worse, if they were diligent and noted the location of the new hive, they could have gone to their old hive and told their fellow workers there was lots of honey in a lightly defended hive just 30 ft away.  A suggestion is to place an obstacle at the hive entrance so if you do have field bees when they emerge from the new hive they will see something is radically different and they may decide it worthwhile to take good note and re-memorize the hive appearance and location, and if they do this then they should return to the new hive.

bee hive
the new bee hive on cinder blocks, not much activity at the entrance

bee hive
the main bee hive with one deep hive frame and two supers, the top one soon to be harvested

I placed the 8 selected frames in a new hive body on the east side of a small fruit tree, which will protect it from the afternoon sun.  As usual my overactive mind got worrying about what could go wrong.  I rechecked the 8 frames in the bee hive and found a queen cell, which I removed.  Next concern – could one of the queen cells have already hatched and I already have a virgin or mated queen bee on my 8 frames.    Young queens are not as noticeable as developed queens – apparently they have more hair and are fuzzier.  I looked but didn’t notice a threat.  Next concern – if there is no queen in a hive for some time then some of the worker bees assume the role of a queen and begin laying eggs but, because they are not real queens and never mated, their eggs produce drones.  And they so take to their new role they may contend with and kill a real new queen.  Enough with the worrying – I fashioned a wire loop to hold the queen cage in position between the two middle frames in the hive body, wished them all well and closed up the new hive.  I checked a day later to see if the workers were balling the caged queen i.e. clustering aggressively on the screen trying to get at her, or whether they seemed happy.  The hive was peaceful, everyone appeared relaxed and content.  So four days after creating the hive I opened it again and removed the tape which covered the hole entrance to her cage.  And, this morning, some days later I opened the hive again and saw the workers had eaten through the candy which plugged the hole and the cage was empty.  I peered fearfully at the bottom of the hive body hoping I would not see a dead queen body, and I did not.  The bees were really very placid, even  a slight jarring of the hive as I moved the frames did not perturb them.  I was working without gloves and without using smoke and I decided to take a quick look and see if I could spot the queen.  She is bigger than a worker bee but size is not the criterion since the drones are also bigger than the workers.  But the drones have big eyes (all the better to spot the virgin queen when she goes on her mating flight) and squat bodies while the queen has a tapered abdomen.  And then I spotted her and she seemed fine.  So I closed up the hive and will leave it be.  I assume she is a laying queen and when next I open the hive I will check for eggs.  In a few days I will add a super on top of the hive body so the bees will have plenty of room for their honey production – for me to savor and for them to get them through the next winter.

bee hive
new bee hive and between frames 3 and 6 you can see plastic securing queen cage
queen bee cage
a closer view of the frames in the bee hive, the white plastic strip locates the queen cage

 

queen bee
can you spot the queen bee?

bees – “The Lost World of the Kalahari”

I have been spending time with my bees – recently did my first split (split the one hive into two separate hives) and will soon do the first honey harvest of 2012.  So, with bees on my mind, I want to include some excerpts from an engrossing book written in 1958 in South Africa by Laurens Van Der Post titled “The Lost World of the Kalahari” about the Bushmen.

The Bushmen loved honey and used a special herbal smoke to drug the bees before he dared reach for the honey because “the wild bees of Africa are the most formidable bees I have ever encountered.  They are smaller than most but quick, fearless, and quite unpredictable.  In the village where I was born no hive was allowed by special by-law within four miles of the township because one sleepy summer’s afternoon all the bees had carried out a combined operation against everything that moved in the streets and sun-filled courtyards and paddocks.  I have forgotten the precise extent of the casualty list but I remember there were two little coloured boys, pigs, hens, sheep, goats, dogs and several horses among the dead.”

To locate a hive the Bushman had an ally in a little bird called Die Heuning-wyser, the honey-diviner, who loved honey as much as did the Bushman.  When the bird found a nest it would alert the Bushman who would follow it and after harvesting the honey “he would never fail to reward the bird with honey and, on a point of mutual honour, share with it the royal portion of the harvest: a comb as creamy as the milk of Devon with its own cream made of half-formed grubs.”

And if you did not reward the bird?  Why then, according to a narrator at the camp fire “it will punish you heavily….I once knew a man whose stomach was too big for his eyes- no, not a man of my own people but of the stupid Bapedi – he cheated the bird out of its share and the very next day it called on him again and led him straight to a hole where there was no honey but an angry female puff-adder who bit him on his greedy hand and killed him…..Another bird who had been cheated once led a man into the mouth of a lion….I tell you that bird is too clever for a man to cheat.”

growing oyster mushrooms

The oyster mushroom is one of the easiest to grow.  Available free on the internet is a +300 page handbook on oyster mushroom cultivation which has as its central premise that: “Mushroom cultivation has been evaluated as an effective means for poverty alleviation in developing countries due to its possibility of low cost production, high profit and quick return”.  A handy insight into mushroom growing around the world.

I purchased grain spawn grey dove oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus) in February and today I harvested some of the mushrooms from my grow box and sauteed them with olive oil and chopped garlic – delicious.  In fact the whole meal was delectable – home made whole wheat bread, home brewed dark German style beer, free range eggs (my hens are producing approximately 9 a day) and mounds of garlic, lettuce and other greens from the raised beds.

But to return to the oyster mushrooms.  I have two operations going – an outdoor mushroom shelter where I am waiting for them to emerge from tulip poplar logs, and an indoor grow box.  For the grow box I submerged a bale of straw in water for several days, then packed the straw (substrate) into a plastic grow container which is 36″ long, 22″ wide and 7″ high, sprinkled with grain spawn.

after thoroughly wetting the straw, time to empty the water

plastic grow container packed with straw sprinkled with grain spawn

grow box incubating in warm, dark enclosure

straw blanketed with mycelium

I enclosed the container fully in a black trash bag for a few weeks in the upstairs room where it is warm, checking that it was moist at all times.  The black trash bag prevented cereal seeds from sprouting.  When the fungus (mycelium sounds better) had colonized the straw (the  straw was covered with a soft white layer), I made a plastic (see through) tent over the container  to maintain a high humidity level.

wood frame for plastic tent

plastic tent enclosing grow box

My first mistake was to allow outside light to hit the container.  The mycelium staggered from the light onslaught, visibly slowed its efforts and appeared to assume a yellowish pallor – presumably it was thinning and showing the straw underneath .  I moved the container to a less bright area of the upstairs room and hoped growing activities would resume, but when activity had obviously abated, I concluded the room temperature was too high (my second mistake).  So I relocated the container to the basement where it is cooler and there is some but not much outside natural light.  And the mycelium got back into the swing of life and began growing actively.  I have also been adding coffee grounds from my cappucino machine (my afternoon indulgence) and the grounds have been colonized but have not yet produced mushrooms.

the first arrivals

the advance guard establishes itself
ready for picking

hand watering

All my irrigation is from harvested rainwater.  I used to pump the water from the main storage tanks to an elevated tank near the growing area but since this tank was only  a few feet off the ground and the water was moved by gravity, it trickled slowly from a hose.  And so I gave up and installed water lines and bubblers and let the water do its own thing at its own pace.  An unsatisfactory result, since I wouldn’t notice when individual bubblers clogged and, more importantly, I missed out on the pleasure of  observing each day’s advance.

Last year I was able to purchase the adjoining property which sits on a hill.  Now, with my gravity feed tanks on the top of the hill, the water rushes out the hose and hand watering the vegetables is quicker and enjoyable.  And I look out for all the changes over the past 24 hours.

Last fall I planted acorns in a raised bed with the intention of transplanting the oak saplings in a year’s time (before their taproots grew too long).  This morning some of the leaves were shredded and then I spotted the culprits.

shredded oak leaf - yesterday it was fine

the culprit, one of a gang of 5

I located and collected the 5 caterpillars, then googled whether chicken ate caterpillars and the answer seemed to be “no”.  So I did them in.

I have a bed of early season strawberries and noticed the berries are forming.  Then I spotted one berry ripening quickly and another which will be ready for the eating this weekend.  Unlike the supermarket offerings, my strawberries, if the last 3 years are anything to go by, will be deliciously sweet and plentiful.

strawberry beginning to ripen

strawberry almost ready for the eating

The radishes are ready for picking and the big treat each day, the asparagus, are turning up in greater numbers and have to be picked promptly before they get too tall.

radishes intersprinkled with onions

this radish soon ready for the plate
this asparagus will be ready tomorrow

the potato plants in the trench must soon be mounded

I am pleased to see the “three sisters” (corn, bean and squash) are emerging in places.  I have never been successful with squash – always foiled by the squash borer which levels the plant at its peak – will it be different this year?  Although considered an invasive the comfrey officinalis, which spreads by seed, is seductively attractive.

comfrey officinalis, which spreads by seed and can be invasive

"three sisters" a beginning, how will it end?

 

summerizing the coop

Before I get to the coop, a quick update on my “Spring activity” journal.  I mentioned that pokeweed is an unwelcome visitor, difficult to extricate because of its long thick taproot.  In permaculture “the problem is the solution” and it occurred to me that the taproot, like that of comfrey was performing a valuable function mining minerals two or more feet below the surface.  But this seemed inadequate justification for its presence until I noticed that it, and it alone, has been attacked and eaten by insects, as yet unidentified.  So it is also serving the role of a trap crop and attracting these hungry feasters from my diverse array of vegetables which, so far, are unscathed.

the pokeweed invader is the banquet for hungry feasters

a few feet away the spinach, collard, chard, garlic et al. are unscathed

I also mentioned I was leaving the crimson clover to flower to provide succour for the bees and seed for next growing season.  Well the clover is maturing quickly and today the honey bees and bumblebees and others were busy at them, so my next honey harvesting will include some clover honey.

crimson clover in flower with bees in attendance

Now to the chicken coop.

I have 3 coops, two constructed on two sides (north and east) of the barn.  The east coop is well protected from the summer sun and would be good for summer quarters.  Last year, as winter approached, I built a new larger coop (building details elsewhere on this website) which was well exposed to the winter sun and, since there are no neighboring deciduous trees (yet) even better exposed to the summer sun.  I had considered moving the chicken to the east coop for the duration of the hot weather.  And then a development – Buffy, the Buff Orpington rooster, fixated on Lady Macbeth, his sister.  She is the only hen missing feathers on the back of her head and she is vociferous and will have not truck with him, when she can avoid him.  Which is difficult when they share the same coop and so to escape him she immediately goes to the roosting ledge when they are housed for the night and consequently misses the much anticipated evening meal.

Matters came to a head when she refused to enter the coop one evening and with me trying to coax her in and Buffy charging at her as soon as she crossed the threshold, she became vociferous and agitated, and the two males increasingly frustrated.  The upshot was she spent the night in the north coop with the two comets for companions.  This got me thinking about the wisdom of transferring them all to the east coop.  Their new coop has a partition, all that is missing is a door.  So rather than spring $80 for a gate from HD or Lowes, I constructed a simple door with left over lumber and chicken fencing and two $1.54 hinges from Walmart.

the aggrieved Lady Macbeth

new partition door for coop

So with the winter coop the designated summer home, next steps were to reduce the heat buildup.  It has four south facing windows and a window each on the east and west sides.  Two of the south facing windows and the east and west windows have been predator proofed (I hope)  with wire fencing material and are left open.  I found an old tarp (8ft by 10ft) with brown colored and silver sides and scrubbed the mud off the silver, soon to be sun facing side.  I cut it into 4 sections – two ‘5 by 5′ and two 5′ by 3’.  The two larger pieces were fitted over the two closed south facing windows and the two smaller pieces over the two open south facing windows.

new coop, south side, before sun covers

new coop after sun covers installed

More work remained.  I decided to install a powered attic exhaust fan.  Since in the afternoon and evening the air will be cooler on the east side, I installed the fan on the west facing wall of the coop.  I considered using a roof vent (i.e. one installed on the top of the roof)  which would have therefore been higher up and removed more of the hot air at the higher levels of the coop, but I was unsure where that air would be drawn from.  By installing the exhaust fan on the west side I can ensure that it pulls air from the east window and therefore the air will be moving across the two roosts which are located in between the east window and the installed vent fan.  To power the fan, I installed an exterior power outlet box on the barn wall closest to the coop and led a cable the 100 feet from the barn to the coop.

new power vent and insulation added to west side

power cable to the coop

Apart from the powered vent and the hinges, all the other items were recycled i.e. lying around unused.  As you can see from the ‘photo, I attached the cable to the top of the chicken paddock fencing and to surmount the gates, I bolted 2×4’s to the gate posts and raised the cable 8’ above the gate entrance.

My next venture, and a new one for me, will be to install solar panels on the barn roof and a battery bank and inverter in the barn and thus power the exhaust fan using the summer sun (as well as a powered timed coop door to let the flock out early in the mornings).  To return to an earlier theme, albeit crudely – in the problem (the summer sun) will be found the solution (solar energy powered fan).

something new every day

I learn new things every day.  If I was an attorney I would be studying up on the impact of new legislation and recently decided cases.  An accountant – the impact of new GAAP and the merging with international standards; a business executive – new moves by competitors as they strive for competitive advantage.  For me, my classroom is observing what’s going on around me.

In my post of February 23 I noted that one of twelve muscadines (grape vines) I transplanted did not survive and I provided a sensible (to me) explanation for the failure.  My test for viability (the universal test) is to scrape the trunk and if there is green underneath then it is ok.  Eleven vines had green, this did not and its trunk was peeling and a piece at the end of the vine had broken off.  So it was dead, or so I thought.  This morning as I tended the vines, I noticed it was leafing.

my “dead” muscadine is alive

the trunk certainly appeared dead, but now there is a leaf

So I learn the slow way through trial and observation.

ps – it occurs to me that I planted 11 muscadine and one grape vine and the specimen above is the grape vine, which is why it looked so different/dilapidated compared with the others.  It still failed my scrape test – perhaps I didn’t scrape deep enough or this is a characteristic of grape vines?

I have a constant companion for the ride to the farm and throughout the day – Trudy.  She is a Heinz 57 who awaited us at the dog shelter after trying out and, presumably, rejecting two other families.  A real cutie.  At times I think of the dismissive comment of the Nearings in “Living the Good Life” (1954 page 28, one of my favorite books):”Cats and dogs live dependent subservient lives under the table tops of humans.  Domestic pets kill and drive away wild creatures, whose independent, self-respecting lives seem far more admirable than those of docile, dish-fed retainers.”

Can this be my Trudy they are referring to?  When we return to the house after working the fields she waits patiently for her snack.  I usually hold it in my hand and she gently takes it from me.  Once, being in a rush I dropped it on the floor for her to eat.  She was not happy and ignored it.  On another occasion she waited a bit and then ate it.  And then it occurred to me, my second learning of the day.  When she takes the food from my hand this is not an act of subservience but acceptance of reward for work performed, which in her case involves diligent searching for rabbits and rats and keeping an eye on me at all times.  I think she views it as a fair exchange for services provided.  I could go on about her and I will, together with pictures, at a future date.

spring activity

We have had a warm March to date here (latitude N34 22’52”), 50 miles north of Atlanta, with several days breaking 80 F.

Not surprisingly, there is a lot of growing activity.

My Kiowa blackberry has begun to flower and the American elderberry I bought last year, which looked anemic throughout the year, is leafing strongly.

 

Kiowa blackberry in flower

 

American elderberry looking healthy

Some of the blueberries are in flower – most of my blueberries are rabbiteyes, which have a lower chill requirement than the highbush variety. I do have a southern highbush, which is in flower, and the bumblebee is busy with a Baldwin rabbiteye.

Southern highbush blueberry in flower
Bumblebee on Baldwin rabbiteye blueberry

 

Since our last frost date is mid-April I was concerned that my pears, which blossom early could be frost killed, which happened last year. However, most of my pears have already fruited and the apples are now in flower.

Kieffer pear has already set fruit
Gold Rush apple tree is in blossom

 

The crimson clover is beginning to flower and, once the bees have had their share and it has seeded, I will level it and the winter rye, which is providing a great scaffold for it.

Crimson clover is in flower
In the orchard a mass of crimson clover climbing winter rye

 

My garlic made it through the winter and is looking good. Less welcome is pokeweed which spreads easily and has a thick long taproot which is difficult to dig out.

Garlic looking good
Pokeweed - an unwelcome visitor, difficult to eject

 

My earliglow strawberries are deliciously sweet, seem invulnerable to diseases and pests and are now in their 4th year in the same spot, which defies conventional wisdom. To extend the picking season I purchased and installed last year an everbearing strawberry variety which survived the winter without any cover and is beginning to spread.

Earliglow early season strawberry, now in its 4th year
Everbearing strawberry, planted last fall, now beginning to spread

 

The 4 year old muscadines I uprooted and transplanted are coming to life (whew!) and the bees are very active. I really would like to split the hive but no mated queen bees are available for purchase and, unless I do it soon, they will swarm.

Transplanted muscadine showing signs of life
Busy bees

 

Finally, my first asparagus has emerged and a potato shoot has appeared at the bottom of the trench. When the other potato plants emerge I will begin the process of covering them with soil as they grow higher, until eventually they will flower atop a soil mound.

first asparagus of the season
first potato shoot has emerged